India Resources

Just a few websites that might be of help to those planning a trip to India:

·         www.airindia.com

Probably some of the cheapest flights available from Incheon to New Delhi, with departures four times a week.

·         www.cleartrip.com

The easiest way to book train tickets from outside the country. Pay by credit card and print out your e-ticket when you are done.

·         http://www.hostels.com/

Offers booking for hostels/cheap guesthouses in India and worldwide.

·         http://www.indiamike.com/

Fantastic website with travel articles and forums.

·         www.gingerhotels.com

Chain of basic business hotels across India, can be useful if you want to book somewhere relatively clean and comfortable for your first night.

·         http://www.ttservices.co.kr/

The company which is responsible for issuing Indian visas in Seoul.

A note on the visa process: Although the website states that applications are accepted up until 12.30pm,on our visit last winter the doors were locked around 12.00pm as it takes a while to get everything in order, so arrive in plenty of time. There is a photo store across the road which will do pictures for you.

Also note that visas cannot be paid for in cash-you need to wire the money to the company’s account. See the website for more details and to check for any changes to this procedure.

Winter Vacation Part Two: India

This is the second post in an ongoing series exploring travel ideas for the winter vacation.

If you’re one of the lucky ones who gets two weeks or more off for winter vacation, there’s no need to restrict yourself to travelling in Eastern Asia over the holidays. For something a little more adventurous, India is well worth considering-December and January see pleasant temperatures and dry weather in New Delhi and the surrounding area and with Air India starting a new service from Seoul via Hong Kong, you can be in the Indian capital within about 11 hours. For the first time visitor, India’s ‘Golden Triangle’ is ideal-consisting of the cities of New Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, it offers a bite sized introduction to the country which can be done comfortably in under two weeks’ leaving enough time for a relaxing stopover somewhere on the way home.

Landing at New Delhi airport can be a challenge for even the most hardened traveller and for the less experienced, it can make you want to cower behind the baggage reclaim belt to avoid the chaos outside. For a trip into town with minimum hassle, go to the pre-paid taxi booth as you exit the arrivals area and tell them your destination. Alternatively you can ask your hotel or guesthouse to arrange pick up, but be aware that it can be almost impossible to spot your driver in the melee outside. Many insist that you provide a mobile phone number for this reason.

Streets of Delhi

The majority of backpackers in Delhi choose to stay in the Paharganj area-New Delhi’s answer to Bangkok’s Khao San Road. Whilst the wealth of tourist-centric amenities can be reassuring at first, the constant clamour from rickshaw drivers and sales people can test your patience beyond belief. For a more relaxed arrival, consider heading up to Delhi’s Tibetan neighbourhood, Manju Ka Tila. Although it lacks the central location of Paharganj, it’s also devoid of many of the annoyances.  The narrow streets mean rickshaw drivers are forced to wait outside the neighbourhood on the main road and vendors are more than happy to wait for you to come to them. Accommodation in the few small guesthouses is basic but friendly and the twenty minute ride into town is a short price to pay for the (relative) peace and quiet.

The first stop for many visitors in Delhi is the Red Fort, an imposing structure which seems to glow in the heat of the Indian sun. Once you walk through the covered bazaar crammed with jewellery and souvenir stalls, you emerge onto a wide expanse of lawn around which there are a number of other buildings, many in faded white marble which provides a dramatic contrast with the red walls of the exterior. Venturing further around the interior, a number of buildings have a slightly European flavour to them. The fort also boasts a sound and laser show at night, which is rather less tacky than it sounds and offers a good opportunity to see the structure in a different setting.

Whilst the fort is probably Delhi’s best known architectural attraction, there’s plenty more to be discovered. The arguably more spectacular Humayan’s tomb is a precursor of the Taj Mahal and bears a number of similarities to the famous Mausoleum. Strolling through the grounds is a delight, and it is one of the few places in Delhi where it’s fairly easy to find your own space to sit back for a moment and just remind yourself where you are.  Many of the paths are lined by sparkling turquoise waterways and after climbing to the top of the main building, you can explore a number of darkened chambers where the sunlight filters through the intricately patterned windows and speckles the dusty floors.  The views from the top show a vast expanse of parkland, almost allowing you to forget that you are still in the nation’s chaotic capital.

Humayan's Tomb, Delhi

Lodi Gardens

It’s impossible to say you have really experienced life in New Delhi without some serious shopping in the city’s bazaars. Chandni Chowk, in the old city, stretches up from the Red Fort and offers a fascinating, if congested, introduction to bazaar life.  The aforementioned Paharganj has plenty of stalls and shops selling all the usual tourist trinkets. For souvenir shopping in a slightly nicer environment, try Janpath, which starts on the street at the bottom of Connaught Place. A five minute rickshaw ride from here is Lodi Gardens, which provides a good escape when the streets

get a little bit too intense. Not only are these pretty gardens a pleasant place to wander and catch a glimpse of Indian life at a slightly slower pace, they are also dotted with the ruins of various buildings which are fun to explore.

The next stop in the Golden Triangle is Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. Accessible by bus or train, it’s about five hours or so from Delhi. Guesthouses are plentiful, many of which offer rooms and rooftop restaurants with Taj views. It is important to note that tickets for the Taj need to be bought from the office up the road, not at the building itself. If you’re hoping to beat the crowds, arriving early is essential. The Taj opens at sunrise and when we visited, people started arriving before that, meaning there was a daunting line shortly before the sun came up.  At this point we discovered we needed to purchase tickets further up the road and so returned after sunrise about half an hour later to discover that the line had moved quickly and we could simply walk straight in. Whilst it was certainly busy, it was by no means unbearable and the throngs of tour groups crowding around the gates as we left about 10.30am left us convinced that showing up early is the only way to go.

The Taj Mahal

While the Taj is Agra’s number one attraction, the town also has its own Red Fort, which is perhaps more stunning than Delhi’s. As well as imposing brick walls which monkeys scamper up and down, wide, lush, green lawns and a fantastic ambiance which has many visitors wandering around for hours in a semi daze, there are also great Taj views from within the fort. Don’t be put off by the hoards of touts and rickshaw drivers hassling visitors at the entrance-once you get inside it’s a haven of tranquillity. The park Mehtab Bagh is another place to hang out and get great Taj views from across the small river.


Agra's Red Fort



View of the Taj from Mehtab Bagh



Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

The final point of the triangle is the city of Jaipur. Known for its pink sandstone buildings, it was India’s first planned city-but that doesn’t make it feel any less hectic at times. Hawa Mahal is the city’s most famous landmark and photographs best in the morning when the sun is shining on it. Climb up to the top for views of the sprawl below through narrow slits and brightly coloured stained glass windows. The streets outside have excellent shopping opportunities provided you are prepared to bargain hard. The Amber Fort, on the edge of the city, has excellent views from the top while the City Palace and the Royal Gaitor are also worth a look.

Royal Gaitor, Jaipur

Cows roam the streets in Jaipur

Returning to Delhi by train or bus takes around five hours. India isn’t always the easiest place to travel-the air pollution is horrific, the hassle from touts can be intense and while you’ll see incredibly beautiful sights, you’ll also witness some of the most appalling poverty in Asia. That being said, if you’re looking for something a bit different this winter then India is a totally unique experience and a world away from spending your vacation on the beach in Thailand.

Incheon Islands Part Three: Deokjokdo

This is the third instalment in a series of posts about the islands off the coast at Incheon.

Deokjokdo has been described as the most scenic of the Incheon islands, with a long sandy beach backed by pine trees. The drive to Seopori beach from the ferry dock is a stunning (if slightly car-sickness inducing) one, with the road winding over the mountains and past rice paddies and fields. To the visitor recently arrived from Seoul, the amount of greenery is almost shocking.

Despite having retained its rural feel, Deokjokdo has become an increasingly popular destination over the past couple of years. While the summer may see heaps of Korean families and groups of friends heading over for a quick weekend break, during  Chuseok  the visitors were almost exclusively foreign English teachers looking for an escape from the city that didn’t require them to do battle with the holiday traffic. As well as small independent groups, several companies had advertised larger ‘package’ trips via facebook and as we docked around lunchtime it soon became clear that they had had an enthusiastic response, with the small beach resort rapidly beginning to resemble an American college town rather than a rural Korean island.

A cluster of motels, pensions and minbak are scattered up the track across the road from the beach. Whilst ours was decidedly not the five minute walk from the sand we’d been told, it was perched prettily on the side of the hill, surrounded by a sea of vibrant green trees and plants. The mountains rising up all around and the chicken coop around the corner added to the picturesque scene and we headed down to the beach in high spirits.

Seopori beach is certainly attractive and the trees and mountains create a pretty contrast with the golden sand. However, it didn’t seem significantly ‘better’ than the beaches on Muuido or Jawoldo, which  we were expecting given the descriptions we’d read-the water was the deep grey colour seen elsewhere on the west coast and although the sand was soft, there was still a fair amount of debris washed up along the shore in places. Having said that, it was a great place to sit and soak up the sun.

 

Ah yes: The sun. By Tuesday night, some of us had begun to forget what it was. Despite the driving rain when we set off from Incheon earlier in the day, we’d remained upbeat and optimistic that the weather would soon improve. We managed to get a couple of hours or so of dry weather in the afternoon but all too soon the grey clouds which had been hovering overhead delivered the downpour they had been threatening us with all day.

Like almost everyone else on the beach, we ran for the shelter of the little row of convenience stores and restaurants across the road. There we sat around plastic tables under an awning, watching as the downpour became a veritable storm. The volume of water was astonishing. Even stepping out in it for a couple of seconds was enough to soak you to the skin. Resigned to not being able to move for a while, we ordered some food and beers and settled down.  The number of other visitors with the same idea made for a festive atmosphere and it wasn’t long before the soju was out and the drinking games were in full swing.

As the evening wore on however, it became clear that the rain wasn’t going to stop.  The two choices for the evening  were the island’s sole noraebang or more drinking back in motel rooms and pensions. Probably due to the early start many people had had to catch the ferry that morning, things quietened down fairly early.

The next morning dawned rather grey and chilly, but at least the rain had stopped, allowing us to sit on the beach and enjoy the view while desperately trying to pretend we weren’t freezing to death. There are several hiking trails on Deokjokdo, including one up to the peak of the mountain behind the beach, which several people braved despite the muddy, washed out trails. Others took a bus across to the other side of the island and made their way back to Seopori beach by clambering over the rocks around the edge of the coast or swimming around the shoreline.  We wandered around the island out to the end of an old pier, where the water  was a clear, bright blue colour. Several smaller islands could be seen in the distance and would make a great daytrip during sunnier weather.

Hikers making their way around the island

Smaller islands off the coast of Deokjokdo

The improved weather that evening meant that we were able to enjoy a bonfire-albeit not on the beach, as this had been banned. Instead, most of the foreigners on the island crowded into the grounds of one of the motels, who were kind enough to let us have one there. There was a pleasant atmosphere with people chatting, playing drinking games and singing along to the guitars someone had brought.

The next morning, the weather was gorgeous and finally did Deokjokdo justice-the sea sparkled, the sand glowed and the sky was a bright, cloudless blue. This was what made Deokjokdo worth the visit-whilst the beach might be comparable to others in the area, the rural atmosphere and surrounding greenery gave the island a definite ‘holiday’ ambience and it felt more like a real break from Seoul than anywhere else we’ve visited in Korea. Sadly, this was also the day that we were headed home, so we took one last look at the now sun drenched island and decided to come back-in the summer.

 

If anyone has any information about visiting the outlying islands in the Deokjokdo area, please share in the comments below-I’d love to get out there next summer.

Winter Vacation Part One: The Other Thailand

This is the first post in an ongoing series exploring travel ideas for the winter vacation....

Thailand. To most of those staring down the barrel of a long Seoul winter, the name conjures up one image: beaches. White, sandy beaches where the sun blazes down and a dip in the sea feels like a soak in a warm bath.

However, for those wanting a taste of Thailand with a more active twist, there is an alternative: head north. Lush green rainforest, bustling night markets and a wealth of traditional culture await in and around the ‘capital’ of Thailand’s north, Chiang Mai. The week long vacation that most hagwon teachers will have is plenty of time to explore the area, even allowing for a couple of nights in Bangkok-there are no direct flights from Incheon to Chiang Mai so you will need to stop here at least briefly anyway.  Chiang Mai can be reached overland in about 12 hours by either bus or train (trains should be booked at least a week in advance at this time of year) but unless you’re spoiled for time, it makes sense to fly.  Air Asia offers 6 flights a day and local budget carriers Nokair and One-Two-Go also have a wide selection. From the airport, it’s a short and inexpensive ride into town.

The heart of Chiang Mai is the old city, surrounded by a moat and the remnants of walls.  Inside, turning down almost any street will bring you to one of Chiang Mai’s hundreds of Wats, or temples. There are several ‘must sees’ on most visitors’ lists-Wat Phrah Singh for its famous Buddha image,  the towering ruins of Wat Chedi Luang-but just as enjoyable is strolling around the city and stumbling across some of these hidden gems for yourself.

The wats don’t stop once you head out of the old city-a particularly well known and loved spot is Wat U Mong, its setting at the foot of a well forested mountain making it especially appealing to visitors. Also on the other side of the moat is another of Chiang Mai’s biggest attractions-shopping. Whilst Bangkok may be the destination of choice for those looking to snap up designer bargains, the streets of Chiang Mai teem with handicrafts and souvenirs of all shapes and sizes. The night bazaar is crammed with stalls selling almost everything you could possibly want to remember your vacation by and the overwhelming selection of tempting street food makes this the perfect place to spend an evening or two.  On Sundays, head back inside the old city for the ‘Sunday Walking Street,’ a chance to browse yet more clusters of stalls from late afternoon onwards.

While shopping and sightseeing are delightful ways to spend time in Chiang Mai, the real charm of the city is the opportunities it provides to experience Thai culture and explore the surrounding area. Almost every guesthouse in the city has its own travel agency run out of the lobby/common area, which can book you on any kind of course or tour you desire. Don’t feel that you have to book through the place you are staying in-whilst many guesthouses will ‘encourage’ you to do so, the best way to make sure you get the experience you want is to ask around amongst other travellers to find out what they recommend.

 Cooking courses are always popular with those who have a day to spare, with most including a trip to the local market to source the ingredients you’ll be using for the day. The Lonely Planet’s online forum is a great source of up to date information on schools in the area, almost all of whom will pick you up from your guesthouse on request. A day spent horse riding, rock climbing or even flying are other options.  Those with a few days or a week in the area, who want a more in-depth education in Thai pursuits, can explore classes in Thai massage, Buddhist meditation or Muay Thai boxing.  

Chiang Mai also provides an ideal base from which to explore the surrounding area. One opportunity synonymous with the name of the city is hill trekking, which is offered by every guesthouse and travel agent in town. The usual trip length is two nights/three days, although there are one or two day options available. Many trips will also allow you the opportunity to sample other activities such as elephant riding or bamboo or white water rafting. Unfortunately the popularity of this activity in recent years has meant that some of the hill tribes have become very used to frequent visitors, leading some travellers to complain that the experience felt less than authentic. It’s still possible to enjoy the treks for the stunning scenery, but perhaps best to look to less developed areas of Thailand or Laos if you’re searching for a true sense of exploration.

A massive variety of other one day trips are available including elephant camps, white water rafting, zip-lining through the rainforest and exploring the ‘Golden Triangle’ area, where Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet. Again, travel agencies around town will be able to organise these.

When it comes to a place to rest and recover from the action, Chiang Mai has a plentiful supply of budget guesthouses, most with semi-outdoor restaurants or bars which provide a great way for single travellers to meet others to share their adventures with. A week in Chiang Mai proves that spending your Thai trip lying on the beach isn’t the only way to go back to work feeling refreshed, and you’re almost guaranteed to have a lot more stories to tell.

Jin Air now offers flights to Bangkok for around $500. Other carriers to check for direct routes are Korean Air, Asiana and THAI Airways.

Incheon Islands Part Two: Jawoldo



This is the second instalment in a series of posts about the islands off the coast at Incheon.

Jawoldo sits further out from the mainland than Muuido and the ferry ride from Incheon’s Yeonan Budu terminal feels like the start of a real island adventure. At the end of the hour long trip, a small van was waiting to take us to our home for the weekend, Oak Valley Pension

A pension is a modern, more upmarket version of a minbak-basically a family run guesthouse, usually found in the countryside or at the beach. Pensions usually offer a choice between smaller rooms for 2-5 people, which may or may not have beds, or the larger rooms where everyone crashes together on the floor, which can often accommodate up to 20 guests. Our triple rooms didn’t come with beds, but they did provide an en-suite bathroom and a small kitchen with a gas range and refrigerator-also common in pensions. The building is a cool and airy multi-level house perched on the top of a super steep hill, with a spacious outdoor deck allowing guests to barbecue their dinner with a view of the sea.

Oak Valley Pension



View from the pension down to the beach



Heading down the hill, we were greeted by the welcome sight of a clean and smooth stretch of golden sand. Despite the gorgeous late June weather, we were almost the only people there.  Like Muuido, the water recedes pretty far at low tide; however we were able to swim for much of the afternoon. Some members of our group headed out to explore the rest of the island, using the bikes provided by the pension and the ATVs which were being rented out opposite the beach. The lush, green interior of Jawoldo creates a dramatic contrast with the sandy coastline and some of the beaches are utterly empty, perfect for a true ‘deserted  island’ fantasy.

A small store and restaurant directly across from the beach kept us supplied with snacks and beer all afternoon and we were able to buy enough meat to cook up a feast on the deck of our pension later that evening. Little did we know that we were soon to become a feast ourselves, for the thousands of mosquitoes and sand flies which chomped away merrily at us through pants and shirts as we sat obliviously enjoying a bonfire down on the sand. Taking a late night stroll along the beach, a few of us discovered a large group of visiting school children whose minders were delighted to have the opportunity to encourage their kids to practice English with us and even more delighted to thank us for our meagre efforts by pouring large quantities of soju down our throats. 

The beach at low tide



Sometime around dawn, we staggered back up the hill for a few precious hours of sleep before the ferry back to Incheon. A little later, cries of dismay echoed throughout the pension as various people woke up to discover mosquito bites the size of baseballs (only a slight exaggeration) all over their bodies. It was a tired, hungover and pretty damn itchy group that made its way back to the ferry that lunchtime but we were all in agreement that we’d do it again next summer-and we’d be bringing industrial quantities of insect repellent.

Incheon Islands Part One: Muuido

The waters around Incheon are dotted with islands which make the perfect weekend escape from the city. This is the first in a series of posts covering the area.

Muuido is one of the closer islands to the mainland, with the loading of the ferry across taking longer than the ride itself. After taking a twenty minute bus ride from Incheon Airport (bus number 222) head into the ticket office perched on the edge of the dock and pay 3000 won for a return trip to the island. The boat shuttles back and forth regularly, so the wait is rarely a long one. On the other side, buses wait to take visitors to one of the two beaches on the island-Hanagae or Silmi. The buses are packed on sunny weekends and the trip down the winding roads of the island can be a hair-raising one.

On our most recent trip to Hanagae beach, we found that the island had become a lot more popular with locals and foreigners alike. The wide, sandy beach was dotted with families splashing around in the water to wash off the grime of the city. The entrance to the beach (there’s a 2000 won admission fee) is surrounded by numerous seafood restaurants and a small general store, selling all the beach weekend essentials such as roman candles, snacks and beer. On the beach itself, a small cluster of restaurants at one end offers some non-fishy choices like bibimbap and samgyeopsal.



Sunset at Hanagae Beach

Whilst Muuido can be done as an easy day trip from Seoul (and this seemed to be a popular option, with the island becoming notably quieter in the late afternoon) it pays to stay over to enjoy a few beers over the picturesque sunset. Right on the beach, Muuido’s ‘bungalows’ are basically small huts perched on stilts over the sand. They’re basic but clean and sleep three people comfortably, four if you’re willing to squeeze a little closer! At 30,000 a night, they’re a bargain sleeping option. For an extra 10,000 a night you can rent one of the cabins with an attached bathroom (bungalow guests can use the bathroom facilities on the beach which include open air showers and clean, western style toilets) and fridge, although these are further back in the parking lot and therefore lack the views of the bungalows. There are also a number of pensions scattered around the area.

Bungalows on the beach

Whilst many come to Muuido simply to relax and sunbathe on the sand, there are also a few more active options available. There are a number of hiking trails, including one starting at the entrance to Hanagae beach which leads up a small mountain for gorgeous views of the area. It is also possible to walk out to Silmido, a small uninhabited island, when the tides are right-ask beach staff for details. If you do choose to remain on Hanagae beach, digging for your dinner of clams and other seafood in the mudflats which appear when the tide recedes ( it goes out extremely far) is a fun activity.

Weekend evenings often see a bonfire or two being made on the beach and the atmosphere is friendly but a bit less hedonistic than that of some of the other islands such as Deokjeokdo. It’s the relaxed ambience of Muuido which makes it the ideal weekend getaway for those seeking a sun and sand filled escape from the city.

The Ultimate Chuseok Staycation

The mid week Chuseok holiday this year is both a blessing and a curse. On one hand, most public schools and some hagwons are offering the Monday and/or Friday off, giving a generous 6-9 days of continuous vacation-more than enough to escape the country if you wish. For those who are stuck with Tuesday-Thursday, the options are a little less open.


The problem with Chuseok is that it is one of the two major holidays each year where the majority of Koreans travel back to their home towns, creating a mass exodus out of Seoul. Planes and trains are booked up weeks in advance, whilst buses and cars squat motionless on the highways with their drivers and passengers stewing inside. The hassles involved in leaving the country can put off even the most determined traveller so with that in mind, Get out of Seoul presents the rather contradictory ‘Chuseok Staycation’-your guide to exploring the capital this Korean thanksgiving.

Day One: The Great Outdoors

Ease yourself in to vacation mode with a day of hanging out in the autumn sunshine (hopefully). Seoul might not be a city that screams ‘nature’ or ‘wildlife’, but there are certainly some decent enough spots to check out. For a lazy day of picnicking, the riverside parks at Yeouido/Yeouinaru (Line 5) are a good bet. Eastern Seoul residents are well catered for with Olympic Park (Olympic Park Station, line 5, exit 3) and Seoul Forest (Ttukseom Station, line 2, exit 8), whilst those in the south west of the city have Boramae Park (Boramae Station, line 7, exit 2). Seoul Grand Park (line 4) and Children’s Grand Park (line 7) are other options.

Yeouido Park

For those in the mood for something a little more active, Bukhansan National Park on the northern edge of Seoul has some great, rocky, hiking trails. Whilst locals who have stayed in Seoul over the holidays might well be out and about in this area, it’s likely to be a lot less crowded than a typical weekend in fall. Nearby Suraksan is another alternative. Further south, Gwanaksan is accessible from Seoul National University, Gwacheon and Gwanak stations. A wide variety of routes means there is something to suit everyone. For more details on hiking in these areas, see here.

Continue the outdoor theme into the evening with some al fresco dining and drinking. Whilst many Korean restaurants are closed for some or all of Chuseok, it’s largely business as usual in foreigner friendly areas like Hongdae and Itaewon, although they may be a bit quieter than normal. The ever popular ‘Roofers’ in Itaewon is a decent spot for food and a few beers and although Hongdae’s playground will undoubtedly be a lot quieter than normal, it’s still fun to grab some drinks from the convenience store and people watch with friends.

Day Two: Playtime

Wednesday is the actual day of Chuseok, when Korean families gather together to celebrate and as such, this will be the day when the most things are closed. However, all of Seoul’s major theme parks-Seoul Land, Everland and Lotte World-remain open, along with the COEX aquarium. Whilst you certainly won’t have these places to yourself-it’s becoming more popular for families to take advantage of the time off and head to popular attractions-they should be a lot quieter than on the average weekend. Everland is the most extensive of the three, offering a zoo and the Carribean Bay water park (admission extra) and is located a short way outside of Seoul-buses take about 45 minutes from Gangnam station and traffic on this day shouldn’t be too bad. Seoul Land and Lotte World can be reached by subway from Seoul Grand Park station and Jamsil station respectively.

Again, many Korean-owned restaurants and bars will be closed on this day so it’s the ideal time to treat yourself to a taste of home. Itaewon has the widest variety of foreign restaurants, with Thai, Indian and Mexican places competing for your business. Areas like Hongdae and Gangnam should also have a number of decent options available.

Day Three: History and Culture

The final day of vacation is the perfect opportunity to finally check out a few of those cultural sights you’ve been meaning to get to for ages, if only the weekends didn’t disappear in a blur of much needed sleep and soju. Both Gyeongbukgung and Changdeokgung-Seoul’s two main palaces-are open, with Changdeokgung allowing independent visits on Thursday, unlike other days when you must join a group tour. The War Museum at Samgakji is also open, along with the Hanok village at the foot of Namsan. For those wanting to do some more modern sightseeing, both Namsan Tower and the 63 Building remain open also.

Gyeongbuk Palace

Garden at Changgyeong Palace

It’s likely that a least some of the traditional shops and stalls in Insadong, close to Gyeongbukgung, will be open on this day. In the evening, the excellent Korea House (Chungmuro station) offers a traditional Korean meal and performance in an old Hanok building-the perfect way to relax before heading back to work.