Winter Vacation Part Two: India

This is the second post in an ongoing series exploring travel ideas for the winter vacation.

If you’re one of the lucky ones who gets two weeks or more off for winter vacation, there’s no need to restrict yourself to travelling in Eastern Asia over the holidays. For something a little more adventurous, India is well worth considering-December and January see pleasant temperatures and dry weather in New Delhi and the surrounding area and with Air India starting a new service from Seoul via Hong Kong, you can be in the Indian capital within about 11 hours. For the first time visitor, India’s ‘Golden Triangle’ is ideal-consisting of the cities of New Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, it offers a bite sized introduction to the country which can be done comfortably in under two weeks’ leaving enough time for a relaxing stopover somewhere on the way home.

Landing at New Delhi airport can be a challenge for even the most hardened traveller and for the less experienced, it can make you want to cower behind the baggage reclaim belt to avoid the chaos outside. For a trip into town with minimum hassle, go to the pre-paid taxi booth as you exit the arrivals area and tell them your destination. Alternatively you can ask your hotel or guesthouse to arrange pick up, but be aware that it can be almost impossible to spot your driver in the melee outside. Many insist that you provide a mobile phone number for this reason.

Streets of Delhi

The majority of backpackers in Delhi choose to stay in the Paharganj area-New Delhi’s answer to Bangkok’s Khao San Road. Whilst the wealth of tourist-centric amenities can be reassuring at first, the constant clamour from rickshaw drivers and sales people can test your patience beyond belief. For a more relaxed arrival, consider heading up to Delhi’s Tibetan neighbourhood, Manju Ka Tila. Although it lacks the central location of Paharganj, it’s also devoid of many of the annoyances.  The narrow streets mean rickshaw drivers are forced to wait outside the neighbourhood on the main road and vendors are more than happy to wait for you to come to them. Accommodation in the few small guesthouses is basic but friendly and the twenty minute ride into town is a short price to pay for the (relative) peace and quiet.

The first stop for many visitors in Delhi is the Red Fort, an imposing structure which seems to glow in the heat of the Indian sun. Once you walk through the covered bazaar crammed with jewellery and souvenir stalls, you emerge onto a wide expanse of lawn around which there are a number of other buildings, many in faded white marble which provides a dramatic contrast with the red walls of the exterior. Venturing further around the interior, a number of buildings have a slightly European flavour to them. The fort also boasts a sound and laser show at night, which is rather less tacky than it sounds and offers a good opportunity to see the structure in a different setting.

Whilst the fort is probably Delhi’s best known architectural attraction, there’s plenty more to be discovered. The arguably more spectacular Humayan’s tomb is a precursor of the Taj Mahal and bears a number of similarities to the famous Mausoleum. Strolling through the grounds is a delight, and it is one of the few places in Delhi where it’s fairly easy to find your own space to sit back for a moment and just remind yourself where you are.  Many of the paths are lined by sparkling turquoise waterways and after climbing to the top of the main building, you can explore a number of darkened chambers where the sunlight filters through the intricately patterned windows and speckles the dusty floors.  The views from the top show a vast expanse of parkland, almost allowing you to forget that you are still in the nation’s chaotic capital.

Humayan's Tomb, Delhi

Lodi Gardens

It’s impossible to say you have really experienced life in New Delhi without some serious shopping in the city’s bazaars. Chandni Chowk, in the old city, stretches up from the Red Fort and offers a fascinating, if congested, introduction to bazaar life.  The aforementioned Paharganj has plenty of stalls and shops selling all the usual tourist trinkets. For souvenir shopping in a slightly nicer environment, try Janpath, which starts on the street at the bottom of Connaught Place. A five minute rickshaw ride from here is Lodi Gardens, which provides a good escape when the streets

get a little bit too intense. Not only are these pretty gardens a pleasant place to wander and catch a glimpse of Indian life at a slightly slower pace, they are also dotted with the ruins of various buildings which are fun to explore.

The next stop in the Golden Triangle is Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. Accessible by bus or train, it’s about five hours or so from Delhi. Guesthouses are plentiful, many of which offer rooms and rooftop restaurants with Taj views. It is important to note that tickets for the Taj need to be bought from the office up the road, not at the building itself. If you’re hoping to beat the crowds, arriving early is essential. The Taj opens at sunrise and when we visited, people started arriving before that, meaning there was a daunting line shortly before the sun came up.  At this point we discovered we needed to purchase tickets further up the road and so returned after sunrise about half an hour later to discover that the line had moved quickly and we could simply walk straight in. Whilst it was certainly busy, it was by no means unbearable and the throngs of tour groups crowding around the gates as we left about 10.30am left us convinced that showing up early is the only way to go.

The Taj Mahal

While the Taj is Agra’s number one attraction, the town also has its own Red Fort, which is perhaps more stunning than Delhi’s. As well as imposing brick walls which monkeys scamper up and down, wide, lush, green lawns and a fantastic ambiance which has many visitors wandering around for hours in a semi daze, there are also great Taj views from within the fort. Don’t be put off by the hoards of touts and rickshaw drivers hassling visitors at the entrance-once you get inside it’s a haven of tranquillity. The park Mehtab Bagh is another place to hang out and get great Taj views from across the small river.


Agra's Red Fort



View of the Taj from Mehtab Bagh



Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

The final point of the triangle is the city of Jaipur. Known for its pink sandstone buildings, it was India’s first planned city-but that doesn’t make it feel any less hectic at times. Hawa Mahal is the city’s most famous landmark and photographs best in the morning when the sun is shining on it. Climb up to the top for views of the sprawl below through narrow slits and brightly coloured stained glass windows. The streets outside have excellent shopping opportunities provided you are prepared to bargain hard. The Amber Fort, on the edge of the city, has excellent views from the top while the City Palace and the Royal Gaitor are also worth a look.

Royal Gaitor, Jaipur

Cows roam the streets in Jaipur

Returning to Delhi by train or bus takes around five hours. India isn’t always the easiest place to travel-the air pollution is horrific, the hassle from touts can be intense and while you’ll see incredibly beautiful sights, you’ll also witness some of the most appalling poverty in Asia. That being said, if you’re looking for something a bit different this winter then India is a totally unique experience and a world away from spending your vacation on the beach in Thailand.